Tuesday, April 24, 2018
Yes I have been busy and it's about the right time to let the cat out of the bag.
I have never been entirely happy with the Flat-4 BRM replicas on the black VW even after cutting the front wheels down from 5.5 to 4.25 inch and installing the 6.5 inch rear's. It just seemed like something any idiot with a VW could do even though it wasn't that easy ... so as my sideline business is equipped with a HAAS CNC mill, I got thinking about making my own wheels.
I then tracked down a pair of original magnesium BRM's out of California in order to accurately model my proposed design (one of which is now my spare wheel in the black VW) and set the engineers on their way with creating the wheels in computer code. I wanted to maintain as much of the original dimensioning as was reasonably possible even down to the steel lug inserts which we ended up replicating as a nod to the original wheel design (exact same as the original magnesium BRM inserts and available from us cad plated).
A quick trip to Surman Metals http://www.surmanmetals.com/ provided the raw stock- Russian 6061-T6 alloy sliced off as below and got Rob Surman excited as noted below.
At this stage I had some very heavy lumps of alloy taking up a fair bit of room in the MK3 Golf.
Next they were loaded up in the mill and within a reasonable amount of time the weight was reduced and the BRM wheel was beginning to be revealed!
We are serial numbering all wheels and this set (B00001-B00004) were reserved for my car. Why the 'B'? That is because we named the wheel after a chap I know- BORIS.
After being machined to about 95% I then sent the wheels off for shot blasting which then roughed up the flat surfaces to replicate the original finish. Another trip on the CNC then exposed the shiny sharp faces as I was wanting and then I then sent them off to Key Manufacturing http://keyman.com.au/ for anodising in a silver to kind of match the BRM center caps I had bought from Ron Fleming at FAT Performance. I was either going to go black or silver and with the car being a very large black space, decided in the end to run with the silver to break up that darkness. I may do another set in black later if I get motivated. I am still of two minds.
Hardware was sourced from the UK and then the rim lips and barrels were produced in Victoria at https://www.whitehorseindustries.com.au/ to my specifications. As you can see I am running very different front and rear widths and offsets to suit my car which has some odd parts fitted (for a VW-1500) such as CSP front disks, 356B rear brakes (sourced many years ago from 'The Maestro' and are the rear set from a complete set that got split between myself and Jerry Seinfeld) and short Type 1 axles.
This is the exact reason I went down this path- my wheels can be made to fit any width or offset and fixes wheel fitment issues 100%.
I just hope that my measuring pays off and these fit the car as well as I am believing they will!
Wheel #B00001 after anodising. Nice work huh.
Our business name machined in another spoke. There is so much more to come from us including engine components, dyno's and even a very special complete engine block that is VW related. This is just the tip of the iceberg.
And although it's a little hard to see, here is another set of BRM's to suit Simmons 15 inch pattern but are ultra thin and light weight. These do not allow the fitment of BRM caps due to the design but were made to specs for a formula vee which is being raced in Adelaide, South Australia by Rob Surman.
The BRM centers for my car only weigh about 2.62kg so these ones are lighter than that by a fair margin. Next step would be to make all of these in magnesium... or possibly an entire replica BRM in magnesium.
Sunday, February 11, 2018
A few random images of where I am at with the notchback as of today. The body is bolted down and a lot of the small parts are now fitted. Starting to look like a semi complete car.
Next big step is the headliner so the glass can be installed and then of course more more small interior pieces.
Monday, January 29, 2018
More engine nightmares but progress nevertheless.
The heater boxes (original to the car) were missing these weirdo clamps for the duration I have owned the car so I got hold of a pair of them NOS and sat them where they belong. Quite what they do is beyond me as the muffler is clamped by the conventional clamps onto the heater box. Anyhow.... they are installed and the muffler can go back on once the fan housing's are bolted on.
I thought I would share the images of the full flow set up on the 1602cc.
It's just regular brass fittings out of the Gene Berg relief valve pump cover (3/8 NPT) and the case with adapters to -8 speedflow alloy angled fittings and speedflow hose all in black which is orientated correctly to clear the fan housing without clearancing the magnesium and once they get below the lower tinware the hoses are clamped together and ran as a pair up to the o'Berg oil filter which will be mounted near the air mixer on the passenger side (left side for us RHD people).
Yes it looks weird but this ain't no bug so you have to do things a bit different to suit the VW-1500.
Next up is to get hold of a non-thermostat inner fan housing and that will get a lot of other parts bolted onto the engine. As you can see, this 1602cc is based around a brand new AS-41 magnesium VW crankcase because the original crankcase was heavily cracked and is now of little use except perhaps as a foot stool.
Friday, January 26, 2018
Thought I would share some of the images I have found on various public forums' that I have been referencing for my engine build.
Since my engine is a unique build (74mm SPG x 83mm = 1602cc) I have had to combine a few parts from various Type 3 1500 models plus the aftermarket parts to make sure it resembles something 'stock' visually, which has been a challenge.
Wednesday, January 24, 2018
I sealed the rear ash tray seals in the body tonight using the original liners and some fancy product from Sikaflex. Previously the seals were not sealed in the car well from the factory and did leak water everywhere thus leading to some heavy rust and corrosion which was one of the triggers to the restoration.
Once this has set somewhat, I may apply more sealant or evaluate if I need to do anything else to remove the water from being able to enter which is the death of these Type 3's.
You may wonder why the hell I painted the inner fender areas so well in this area and this is also because of the water sealing situation - if I have polished up smooth paint (instead of the VW applied primer back in 1964), I believe I have a better chance this time around of avoiding the rust in the future. Makes sense huh?
Also note I have used Wurth rubber seals for the interior trim (and will be used on the external side trim too) as I believe these are the best seals on the market.
I also found a bag of NOS seat belt plugs in white a long time ago and have started to install these in the car including under the back seat area. The bolt in the center is also the original KNIPPING brand bolt that holds the rear seat in place and I am now almost ready for the interior to be dealt with.
Next update might be the seat back release cables. I have almost finished the installation of them after remembering how they all connect. Not the most enjoyable job but had to be done.